That liberating feeling of driving a scooter along the endless rice paddies and palm-fringed interiors. Working out of quaint cafes with decent Wifi. Indulging my taste buds in authentic Goan curries and at organic cafes. Calling charming old Portuguese houses (and other offbeat stays in Goa) ‘home’ for a few weeks.
This offbeat Goa, a Goa that few end up discovering, is everything I need to recharge my batteries, catch up on work and retreat into susagade (contentment) mode.
Away from the grey beaches and boisterous crowds, this is my guide to lesser-known, offbeat places in Goa. Where peacocks dance in open meadows in the rains and locals gather at neighborhood churches to pray and socialize. Where long-term dwellers embrace an organic way of life, and creative types find abundant inspiration.
Their 500+ year old Portuguese era home is full of untold stories and their drinking water still comes from an ancient well. In the outhouse cottage surrounded by old jackfruit trees, there is plenty of privacy. Yet chances are, you won’t leave without feeling like a part of the 3 generations of this family.
This Portuguese-style home is nestled in one of Saligao’s villages with cobbled streets, home to stunning rice paddies. I felt totally pampered by Helene’s famous breakfasts – home-baked sourdough bread, hummus, vegan sourdough pancakes and Goan savories. And those late night dips in a mostly naturally cleaned pool under a moonlit sky were something else!
Time and again, I’ve heard Goans lament about (and seen for myself) how mass tourism is slowly destroying the beauty of Goa. As travellers, it is upon us to make more informed travel choices and be more aware of our surroundings.
There is always something happening in Goa – yoga classes, discussions, movie screenings, live music. Look out for event posters in cafes like Saraya.